To repair the alternator, observe the following
procedure.
DISASSEMBLY
Note or mark the front to rear housing relationship, this is the
"clock" Position. You must know it for re-assembly. Then
remove the 3 thru-bolts and separate the
drive end frame assembly from the slip
ring end frame assembly. The stator should remain in the rear (D.E.)
housing. To remove the
drive end frame from the rotor, place
the rotor in a vise, using wood blocks or brass jaws so not to damage the
rotor then tighten only
enough to permit removal of the shaft
nut, or hold rotor with hex wrench in
end of shaft when removing nut. To
disassemble slip ring end frame (Figure
4) proceed as follows:
1. Punch out
cover rivets, or pins, (figure 4), and
discard cover.
|
|
2. To separate stator from end
frame
assembly. cut off or unsolder the leads
at rectifier bridge terminals.
3. Remove stator.
4. Punch out baffle pins, Figure 4, remove
baffle.
5. Carefully note the position and internal connections so reassembly can be
made correctly as shown in Figure 5.
6. Detach fasteners, lift brush holder,
regulator. and rectifier bridge from end
frame.
7. Unsolder or un-crimp, as needed, the
connector to disconnect regulator from rectifier bridge, and from
brush holder.
|
|
ROTOR, FIELD
WINDING (Stator)
CHECKS
Connect test lamp or ohmmeter from
one slip ring to rotor. If lamp lights,
or if reading is low, the rotor winding
is grounded (Figure 6). To check for
opens, connect the test lamp or ohmmeter
to each slip ring. If the lamp fails to
light, or if the ohmmeter reading is
high (infinite), the winding is open,
replace rotor. If the
rotor is not defective, but the
alternator fails to supply rated output.
the defect is in the rectifier bridge. stator,
or regulator.
Page 4....NEXT
PAGE>>>>> |
